Poiret, Paul. (1879 - 1944) Revue "Sur Fond de Gueles" - Invitation to an unrecorded opera revue, 1907.
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Poiret, Paul. (1879 - 1944)
Revue "Sur Fond de Gueles" - Invitation to an unrecorded opera revue, 1907.
Revue "Sur Fond de Gueles" - Invitation to an unrecorded opera revue, 1907.
Invitation to an early and unknown opera revue, "Sur Fond de Gueules," staged by the legendary fashion designer, costume designer and mastermind of spectacular society events. Dated February 19, 1907, the event is described as a "Revue in 2 acts and 2 tableaux by M. Paul Poiret, with the gracious assistance of the principal members of the C. V. P." In keeping with Poiret's genius for bringing together the decorative and performing arts, the makers of the goldwork (Maison Linzeler), scenery (Macrotte and Bouldegomme), costumes (Maison Poiret), furniture (Maison Sormani), and objets d'art (Susse) for the production are listed, of which several were established and successful artisan firms. Below this, the orchestra is described as "directed by Maestro Desclers," followed by an interesting rebus of several images, perhaps representing the names of the musicians. At the head, an illustration incorporating the name of the revue shows two hand puppets in a booth, one striking down the other. On heavy paper with some toning and light creasing; otherwise in fine condition. 14 x 21.7 cm.
While primarily remembered for freeing women from the tyranny of the corset with his flowing, high-waisted gowns and harem pants, Paul Poiret was also an master marketer with the innovative ability to bring together couture, drama, music, and the decorative arts. The elaborate soirées he organized at his home beginning in 1910 featured music prominently, and, predating the historical performance movement, even showcased 17th- to 18th-century music on historical instruments. Mary E. Davis writes: "[A]lthough his musical involvements have received virtually no attention, Poiret wielded considerable influence in sophisticated circles, helping to define a repertoire that was both stylish and modern and ultimately shaping the musical taste of a key segment of upper-class society." (Davis, 39.) This 1907 revue predates Poiret's better-known events, which continued from 1910 on into the 1920's, and suggests that even while still establishing himself as an important couturier, Poiret was already positioned to bring together diverse art forms and to become the "prime Parisian tastemaker" he became known as (Davis, 43).
Mary E. Davis: Classic Chic. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2006.